ATOLL DIVE SITE DESCRIPTIONS
There are only four atolls in the Western Hemisphere, and three of them are right here in Belize. They sit atop two parallel submerged mountain ridges separated by a deep water channel. The Turneffe Islands and Glover's Reef are on one, while Lighthouse Reef lies farther east. Rising amid deep offshore water, they boast some of the most exciting wall diving in the region and promise excellent visibility. The dive here, consider one of three options - day trips through a dive center on the mainland or offshore cayes, a package stay at one of the atoll-based resorts or a berth on a live-aboard boat.
LIGHTHOUSE REEF ATOLL
LIGHTHOUSE REEF ATOLL
Some 40 miles east of Belize City, Lighthouse Reef is the most seaward of the three atolls. Although the legendary Blue Hole may be the headline attraction, the region offers a wide-variety of dive sites. Its offshore location means generally excellent visibility and frequent encounters with large marine denizens.
While you're here, visit the nature reserve on Half Moon Caye. You should also try snorkeling off the caye, particularly around the old wooden pier just east of the new quay. Rays and nurse sharks often rest here, and they'll come within reach if you're patient and move slowly.
Some 40 miles east of Belize City, Lighthouse Reef is the most seaward of the three atolls. Although the legendary Blue Hole may be the headline attraction, the region offers a wide-variety of dive sites. Its offshore location means generally excellent visibility and frequent encounters with large marine denizens.
While you're here, visit the nature reserve on Half Moon Caye. You should also try snorkeling off the caye, particularly around the old wooden pier just east of the new quay. Rays and nurse sharks often rest here, and they'll come within reach if you're patient and move slowly.
BLUE HOLE - Advanced
The best appreciate the size and symmetry of the Blue Hole, one should view it from a plane, though it's still very impressive as you boat across the center of this collapsed cave system. On first entering the water, you may be somewhat disappointed as the visibility can be poor and the water has a gray cast to it. But after you descend though a thermocline at about 50 or 60 feet, the water clears dramatically.
The sheer-sided wall drops about 100 feet to the first undercut and stalactites. Although the water is clear, light levels are low as you wend your way through the formations. A good dive light is essential to appreciate the sponge and invertebrate life. Some of the local boats have been regularly chumming the waters on the south side of the hole to attract reef sharks, though you're unlikely to encounter any fish until you return to the rim. To be honest, once you've seen the first few stalactites, you've seen all the Blue Hole has to offer. While this is certainly an exciting, must-do-site, one visit should be enough for most divers.
While there is some coral growth and fish life in the shallows, the reef top can't compare to the atoll's spectacular outlying reefs, as water flow is limited in the surrounding shallow lagoon. To find the best snorkeling, swim away from the hole into the lagoon.
The sheer-sided wall drops about 100 feet to the first undercut and stalactites. Although the water is clear, light levels are low as you wend your way through the formations. A good dive light is essential to appreciate the sponge and invertebrate life. Some of the local boats have been regularly chumming the waters on the south side of the hole to attract reef sharks, though you're unlikely to encounter any fish until you return to the rim. To be honest, once you've seen the first few stalactites, you've seen all the Blue Hole has to offer. While this is certainly an exciting, must-do-site, one visit should be enough for most divers.
While there is some coral growth and fish life in the shallows, the reef top can't compare to the atoll's spectacular outlying reefs, as water flow is limited in the surrounding shallow lagoon. To find the best snorkeling, swim away from the hole into the lagoon.
EAGLE RAY WALL - Intermediate
This site is known for regular sightings of eagle rays, though as with most marine life encounters, this is a matter of luck. Whether or not you see one, this is a splendid dive. You'll start at the mooring pin in 30 feet amid deeply cut reef outcrops, then drop over the sheer wall to a ledge between 115 to 145 feet. You won't have to go this deep to find lush black coral trees, which grow along the overhangs and sport bright clusters of tunicates - an excellent macro subject. You'll encounter dense shoals of snappers and jacks along the wall, and perhaps a passing eagle ray or turtle.
The reef top is rich in macro life. Many small purpose sea fans host striking flamingo tongue cowries. You may also find nudibranchs and small fish species like triplefins and secretary blennies, which live in small holes in the reef. Swim toward shore to finish your dive in 15 to 18 feet of water. The shallows offer good snorkeling and a chance to spot scorpionfish and peacock flounders.
The reef top is rich in macro life. Many small purpose sea fans host striking flamingo tongue cowries. You may also find nudibranchs and small fish species like triplefins and secretary blennies, which live in small holes in the reef. Swim toward shore to finish your dive in 15 to 18 feet of water. The shallows offer good snorkeling and a chance to spot scorpionfish and peacock flounders.
THE AQUARIUM - Intermediate
Here a well-developed spur-and-groove formation leads to the wall. The site is named for the wide variety of small resident reef fish on the reeftop and along the edge of the wall. When a current is running, you can shelter in one of the deep sandy gullies site for photographers seeking cooperative subjects.
Turtles and bold French angelfish are common on the reef crest, while large black groupers and trumpetfish hover amid branching gorgonians atop the wall. Descend to about 60 feet to find big barrel sponges and pretty azure vase sponges, which shelter banded coral shrimp and juvenile fish. Scan the blue water for such big fish as sharks and manta rays.
Turtles and bold French angelfish are common on the reef crest, while large black groupers and trumpetfish hover amid branching gorgonians atop the wall. Descend to about 60 feet to find big barrel sponges and pretty azure vase sponges, which shelter banded coral shrimp and juvenile fish. Scan the blue water for such big fish as sharks and manta rays.
SILVER CAVES - Intermediate
The mooring here is adjacent to the wall, which tops out at 30 feet. Swimming over the edge, you'll find many colorful tube, barrel and rope sponges amid branching gorgonians, including broad deepwater sea fans, whose polyps are fully extended at night. Predatory tarpon and barracuda cruise the wall, while horse-eye jacks, bar jacks and chub gather in large shoals beneath your boat.
The wall is peppered with numerous caves and overhangs, some home to dense shoals of silver sides that part like a shimmering curtain as you swim through them, hence the site name. Take care when exploring the caves and bring a dive light to help you locate nocturnal species and appreciate the colorful encrusting organisms.
Spend your safety stop meandering atop the shallow coral gardens in 20 feet. This site is worth several dives. Night dives are particuarily rewarding. You'll encounter all manner of sleeping fish, foraging spiny lobsters, arrow crabs, brittle stars, sponges dotted with red night shrimp and tiny hermit crabs, as well as the inevitable marauding tarpon, which hunt in the beam of the boat's lights.
The wall is peppered with numerous caves and overhangs, some home to dense shoals of silver sides that part like a shimmering curtain as you swim through them, hence the site name. Take care when exploring the caves and bring a dive light to help you locate nocturnal species and appreciate the colorful encrusting organisms.
Spend your safety stop meandering atop the shallow coral gardens in 20 feet. This site is worth several dives. Night dives are particuarily rewarding. You'll encounter all manner of sleeping fish, foraging spiny lobsters, arrow crabs, brittle stars, sponges dotted with red night shrimp and tiny hermit crabs, as well as the inevitable marauding tarpon, which hunt in the beam of the boat's lights.
PAINTED WALL - Intermediate
As at all sites off Long Caye, this is approachable as either a wall dive or a leisurely tour of the reeftop. A shallow spur-and-groove formation runs along the top of the wall, with one or two deeper outlying cuts. When surface winds stir up strong surge in the shallows, head straight for deeper water. The wall itself drops sharply and is adorned with tall tube and stovepipe sponges alongside random tangles of red and deep purple rope and finger sponges. You'll spot many deepwater sea fans, especially under the overhangs. Inspect the fans closely to find tiny clingfish and clusters of vibrant purplish blue tunicates.
Black groupers, pairs of French angelfish and turtles visit the wall, but the real fish activity happens in the shallows. Look for bizarre scrawled cowfish and pairs of whitespotted filefish, both of which can change their pattern and color. A mob of horse-eye jacks, Bermuda chub and the odd baracuda is usually awaiting divers back to the boat. Photographers are able to closely approach these fish, which seem to accept them into the pack.
Black groupers, pairs of French angelfish and turtles visit the wall, but the real fish activity happens in the shallows. Look for bizarre scrawled cowfish and pairs of whitespotted filefish, both of which can change their pattern and color. A mob of horse-eye jacks, Bermuda chub and the odd baracuda is usually awaiting divers back to the boat. Photographers are able to closely approach these fish, which seem to accept them into the pack.
JULIE'S JUNGLE - Intermediate
This site was named after a marine biologist who helped install the mooring pin, which sits on the reeftop in 30 feet. From there deep grooves run to the edge of a steep drop-off at 50 feet. You'll spot big barrel sponges atop the wall, and once over the crest you'll find clusters of colorful tube sponges and branching gorgonians.
Schools of horse-eye jacks cruise the edge of the wall and gather beneath dive boats with the usual large lone barracuda. Small wrasses and various angelfish buzz about the shallows. Ideal macro subjects, secretary blennies peer quizzically at divers from tiny holes in hard corals and barrel sponges. Living amid the many anemones are tiny purple Pederson cleaning shrimp, which will give you a manicure if you're patient.
Schools of horse-eye jacks cruise the edge of the wall and gather beneath dive boats with the usual large lone barracuda. Small wrasses and various angelfish buzz about the shallows. Ideal macro subjects, secretary blennies peer quizzically at divers from tiny holes in hard corals and barrel sponges. Living amid the many anemones are tiny purple Pederson cleaning shrimp, which will give you a manicure if you're patient.
QUEBRADA - Intermediate
Quebrada ("gorge" in Spanish) refers to a wide sandy ravine that breaks the reef at this point. Your boat will moor in sand on a reef table peppered with small coral outcrops. The passage itself leads past coral buttresses to the sheer wall, which boasts lush coral formations along its overhanging edge.
As you explore several deep overhangs along the wall, you'll notice a sandy ledge below you at 135 feet. Forgo pushing to this depth, as there's plenty to see between 60 and 80 feet. Resident dolphins often approach divers in pairs, making several close passes before disappearing into the blue. Have your camera ready, as trying to keep up with them would just leave you feeling inadequate.
You'll find a range of common reef species atop the wall and amid the shallow coral outcrops. Yellowtail snappers are particularly persistent, having been fed here in teh past. The prospect of food means these and other fish stick close to divers, making them much easier to photograph. Also keep an eye out for invertebrates such as arrow and clinging crabs, banded coral shrimp and several nudibranch species.
As you explore several deep overhangs along the wall, you'll notice a sandy ledge below you at 135 feet. Forgo pushing to this depth, as there's plenty to see between 60 and 80 feet. Resident dolphins often approach divers in pairs, making several close passes before disappearing into the blue. Have your camera ready, as trying to keep up with them would just leave you feeling inadequate.
You'll find a range of common reef species atop the wall and amid the shallow coral outcrops. Yellowtail snappers are particularly persistent, having been fed here in teh past. The prospect of food means these and other fish stick close to divers, making them much easier to photograph. Also keep an eye out for invertebrates such as arrow and clinging crabs, banded coral shrimp and several nudibranch species.
LONG CAYE RIDGE - Intermediate
The spurs here are widely spaced, with broad sand chutes that slope sharply toward the wall. Although you'll find patches of healthy brain, plate and staghorn coral, hard corals in the shallows show signs of wave damage, possibly due to hurricanes. The hard corals improve as you approach the edge of the wall, where you'll also find familiar arrays of sponges and branching gorgonians.
Moreover, where the coral is damaged or dead, algae now flourishes, attracting grazing angelfish, butterflyfish, hamlets and schools of blue tangs. Conditions are also ideal for spotting nudibranchs. Watch for scorpionfish, which keep well hidden amid the algae.
Moreover, where the coral is damaged or dead, algae now flourishes, attracting grazing angelfish, butterflyfish, hamlets and schools of blue tangs. Conditions are also ideal for spotting nudibranchs. Watch for scorpionfish, which keep well hidden amid the algae.
PETE'S PALACE - Intermediate
This site ws named after live-aboard operator Peter Hughes, who placed the original mooring. An impressive series of deep spurs and grooves runs toward the drop-off, which tops out around 65 feet. The wall is festooned with a selection of barrel and tube sponges, which fight for space in places.
Along the wall you'll spot lots of small reef fish and several cleaning stations, where bold black groupers will stare you down. Toward the end of your dive explore the shallows to find hermit crabs, lizardfish, ;peacock flounders and yellowhead jawfish. Very lucky divers may spot the elusive shortnose batfish.
This is another very good night dive. Look for sleeping boxfish, scrawled filefish and a number of nudibranch species. Your boat's lights will likely attract dense balls of baitfish, which in turn draw hungry barracuda, tarpon and squid.
Along the wall you'll spot lots of small reef fish and several cleaning stations, where bold black groupers will stare you down. Toward the end of your dive explore the shallows to find hermit crabs, lizardfish, ;peacock flounders and yellowhead jawfish. Very lucky divers may spot the elusive shortnose batfish.
This is another very good night dive. Look for sleeping boxfish, scrawled filefish and a number of nudibranch species. Your boat's lights will likely attract dense balls of baitfish, which in turn draw hungry barracuda, tarpon and squid.
NURSE SHARK RIDGE - Intermediate
Nurse Shark Ridge was named following numerous sightings of these fish. Atop the wall, broad sand patches border large coral heads, offering plenty of low overhangs where nurse sharks like to nap. Investigate the overhangs at the start of your dive for the best chance at seeing a shark before other divers disturb it. Just remember, there are no guarantees.
Anyway, there's plenty more to see along the wall. You'll often encounter a steady current, which attracts pelagics and other big fish. Check around the coral heads for prowling tarpon, which wait to pounce on small fish struggling against the current. Palometas also frequent the wall. Sporting long trialing dorsal and anal fins, these silvery jacks dodge in and out of the current in small groups of eight to a dozen.
Anyway, there's plenty more to see along the wall. You'll often encounter a steady current, which attracts pelagics and other big fish. Check around the coral heads for prowling tarpon, which wait to pounce on small fish struggling against the current. Palometas also frequent the wall. Sporting long trialing dorsal and anal fins, these silvery jacks dodge in and out of the current in small groups of eight to a dozen.
NO COCOS (Tres Cocos) - Intermediate
This site was originally named Tres Cocos, after three large coconut palms visible on the beach at Long Caye. Alas, hurricanes have since uprooted the landmarks, and now it's down to No Cocos, although some divemasters may still refer to the old name.
The mooring borders a lush coral garden, but don't linger here at first. Instead, drop down the adjacent wall, which tops out at 40 feet. Its sheer face sports impressive and colorful sponges, as well as some deep overhangs fringed with black coral trees. Check the overhangs for huge black groupers and keep an eye on the blue for jacks, Atlantic spadefish and the occasional reef shark.
Toward the end of your dive, tour the interesting patch-and-gully formation in the shallows. You'll find cleaning stations hosted by juvenile hogfish, which seem partial to barracuda and green morays as clients. Abundant algae growth attracts smalls choose of grazing creole wrasses, parrotfish, blue tangs and hogfish.
The mooring borders a lush coral garden, but don't linger here at first. Instead, drop down the adjacent wall, which tops out at 40 feet. Its sheer face sports impressive and colorful sponges, as well as some deep overhangs fringed with black coral trees. Check the overhangs for huge black groupers and keep an eye on the blue for jacks, Atlantic spadefish and the occasional reef shark.
Toward the end of your dive, tour the interesting patch-and-gully formation in the shallows. You'll find cleaning stations hosted by juvenile hogfish, which seem partial to barracuda and green morays as clients. Abundant algae growth attracts smalls choose of grazing creole wrasses, parrotfish, blue tangs and hogfish.
ELKHORN FOREST - Intermediate
This dive features a dramatic wall and healthy coral - though sadly there's no sign of the namesake elkhorn coral. The atoll largely shelters the site from northeasterly winds. But swells from the east still wash over the reef, making conditions uncomfortable in the shallows. Exercise caution during your safety stop and on your return to the boat.
The reeftop is carpeted with swaying gorgonians that shelter all sorts of smaller fish. Dropping sheer from 50 feet, the scalloped wall resembles small headlans and bays. You'll find spectacular plate and star corals, as well as several large barrel sponges that serve as cleaning stations staffed by juvenile Spanish hogfish. Watch patiently and you may see witing fish chased off by territorial groupers that seem to want the cleaners all to themselves.
The reeftop is carpeted with swaying gorgonians that shelter all sorts of smaller fish. Dropping sheer from 50 feet, the scalloped wall resembles small headlans and bays. You'll find spectacular plate and star corals, as well as several large barrel sponges that serve as cleaning stations staffed by juvenile Spanish hogfish. Watch patiently and you may see witing fish chased off by territorial groupers that seem to want the cleaners all to themselves.
HALF MOON WALL - Intermediate
Divers can visit a spectrum of habitats at this popular site. Your boat will moor over sand flats that boast healthy beds of turtle grass and a garden eel colony. Beyond the turtle grass the sand slopes gently toward the reef. Scan this area carefully to spot southern stingrays either at rest or feeding on buried mollusks.
Deeply cut by gullies and swimming through, the reef is capped with healthy corals and busy with reef fish and small schools of bluestriped grunts. Follow the cuts through small caves and overhangs to the edge of the wall. You'll emerge between 70 to 80 feet beside a sheer face covered with colorful sponges and gorgonians. Keep an eye out for manta and eagle rays, sharks and a variety of pelagics.
Spend the end of your dive exploring the sand and turtle grass. Parrotfish and hogfish root through the sand, follwed by goatfish, triggerfish, gray angelfish, bar jacks and the occasional grouper, which pick up any remaining scrapes. The garden eels are also worth a visit but are frustratingly shy if you're trying to photograph them.
Deeply cut by gullies and swimming through, the reef is capped with healthy corals and busy with reef fish and small schools of bluestriped grunts. Follow the cuts through small caves and overhangs to the edge of the wall. You'll emerge between 70 to 80 feet beside a sheer face covered with colorful sponges and gorgonians. Keep an eye out for manta and eagle rays, sharks and a variety of pelagics.
Spend the end of your dive exploring the sand and turtle grass. Parrotfish and hogfish root through the sand, follwed by goatfish, triggerfish, gray angelfish, bar jacks and the occasional grouper, which pick up any remaining scrapes. The garden eels are also worth a visit but are frustratingly shy if you're trying to photograph them.
SHARK POINT - Intermediate
An extension of Half Moon Wall, this reef shares a similar structure and form. You'll begin atop a broad sandy shelf, where southern stingrays nose in the sand for mollusks and crustaceans. Follow the gentle slope toward the coral reef top the wall.
The reef buttresses here are tightly grouped, forming narrow valleys crowded with sea whips, sponges and reef fish. Choose one of the broader grooves and swim toward the wall. You'll emerge between 60 to 70 feet over a sheer drop into the deep blue. While you may be lucky enough to spot reef sharks or even a hammerhead, you'll more likely see crevalle jacks. Spanish mackerel or perhapes eagle rays. Fed by gentle east-west currents, the corals, sea fans and sponges here are as spectacular as those on Half Moon Wall.
To finish the dive, make your way to the reeftop and drift back with the current. Look for schools of bluestriped grunts amid the gorgonians and stop to catch the action at one of the many cleaning stations.
The reef buttresses here are tightly grouped, forming narrow valleys crowded with sea whips, sponges and reef fish. Choose one of the broader grooves and swim toward the wall. You'll emerge between 60 to 70 feet over a sheer drop into the deep blue. While you may be lucky enough to spot reef sharks or even a hammerhead, you'll more likely see crevalle jacks. Spanish mackerel or perhapes eagle rays. Fed by gentle east-west currents, the corals, sea fans and sponges here are as spectacular as those on Half Moon Wall.
To finish the dive, make your way to the reeftop and drift back with the current. Look for schools of bluestriped grunts amid the gorgonians and stop to catch the action at one of the many cleaning stations.
TURNEFFE ISLANDS
TURNEFFE ISLANDS
A loose band of tropical cayes capped with verdant palms, shrubs and mangroves, the Turneffe Islands comprise the largest of the offshore atolls (30 miles long and 10 miles wide). About 19 miles from the mainland, the atoll is easily accessible via day trip boats from Belize City, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker and is a popular first stop for the live-aboard fleet. Most dive sites are grouped around the south end and west side of the atoll, sheltered from the steady northeast trade winds - although the few exposed sites are among the most thrilling.
A loose band of tropical cayes capped with verdant palms, shrubs and mangroves, the Turneffe Islands comprise the largest of the offshore atolls (30 miles long and 10 miles wide). About 19 miles from the mainland, the atoll is easily accessible via day trip boats from Belize City, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker and is a popular first stop for the live-aboard fleet. Most dive sites are grouped around the south end and west side of the atoll, sheltered from the steady northeast trade winds - although the few exposed sites are among the most thrilling.
SANDY LANE - Intermediate
About 50 minutes by boat from the mainland, this site is on the northwest side of the atoll, sheltered from prevailing winds. The dive starts beneath the mooring in 40 feet and is typically done as a drift dive, despite the lack of currents. You'll swim south over a gently sloping reef, which bottoms out on a series of sandy ledges and a plateau between 80 to 100 feet.
Branching gorgonians stand out amid healthy hard corals along the slope. Although algae growth spread in the wake of Hurricane Keith in October 2000, there's no sign of significant damage. Search the many nooks, crannies and overhangs for a wide variety of invertebrates, including large lobsters, crabs and banded coral shrimp. Amid the corals and sponges you'll find purple-tipped giant anemones, home to Pederson cleaning shrimp and tiny porcelian crabs.
Father south the slope is more pronounced and sports large tube sponges. Fish life here is varied and active, with occasional visits from large pelagics.
Branching gorgonians stand out amid healthy hard corals along the slope. Although algae growth spread in the wake of Hurricane Keith in October 2000, there's no sign of significant damage. Search the many nooks, crannies and overhangs for a wide variety of invertebrates, including large lobsters, crabs and banded coral shrimp. Amid the corals and sponges you'll find purple-tipped giant anemones, home to Pederson cleaning shrimp and tiny porcelian crabs.
Father south the slope is more pronounced and sports large tube sponges. Fish life here is varied and active, with occasional visits from large pelagics.
BLACK CORAL WALL - Intermediate
Just south of Sandy Lane, this site offers similar topography, though a number of sizable spurs lead toward the wall, and the drop here is more pronounced. Sponge and coral growth are also similar. Despite the site name, black coral is not prolific, though you'll find plenty of gorgonians. Black coral has long been a commercial target for the jewelry trade, so this might explain its scarcity here.
That aside, marine life is thriving, with all the usual suspects, including large shoals of schoolmasters along the edge of the drop-off between 50 to 60 feet. As you work your way back to the reeftop, look for macro life such as grazing nudibranchs and flatworms, as well as giant anemones with attendant shrimp and the pretty diamond blenny. You'll also spot lots of boxfish and trunkfish, which often cruise in pairs above the reef with small remoras.
That aside, marine life is thriving, with all the usual suspects, including large shoals of schoolmasters along the edge of the drop-off between 50 to 60 feet. As you work your way back to the reeftop, look for macro life such as grazing nudibranchs and flatworms, as well as giant anemones with attendant shrimp and the pretty diamond blenny. You'll also spot lots of boxfish and trunkfish, which often cruise in pairs above the reef with small remoras.
MINI ELBOW - Intermediate
Though moorings mark this site, its' generally conducted as a drift drive. you'll descend on a gentle sandy slope with scattered coral heads. These gradually coalesce into a more continuous reef structure, with deep cuts running west. Follow one of the cuts to the edge of the wall, between 80 to 100 feet.
To the south is the small namesake promontory in the wall, where turbulence attracts jacks and tarpon. Look for several large green morays amid the sponges along the edge of the drop-off. Deeper on the wall you'll find large sea fans, which stretch into the blue to fee.
The shallows attract schools of creole wrasses, which cruise atop the reef, descending en mass every few minutes to feed. Turtles are also common here, especially in summer, when they gather to lay eggs onshore.
To the south is the small namesake promontory in the wall, where turbulence attracts jacks and tarpon. Look for several large green morays amid the sponges along the edge of the drop-off. Deeper on the wall you'll find large sea fans, which stretch into the blue to fee.
The shallows attract schools of creole wrasses, which cruise atop the reef, descending en mass every few minutes to feed. Turtles are also common here, especially in summer, when they gather to lay eggs onshore.
SAYONARA - Intermediate
A small passenger and cargo shuttle that served Turneffe Island Lodge, the Sayonara was deliberately sunk here in 1985. The ship is now well broken up, although you can still distinguish its basic shape. She lies on a bed of sand and coral rubble at 50 feet. Explore the wreck to find schools of small fish. The surrounding sand shelters many yellowhead jawfish, which hover above their burrows until you get too close. Male jawfish incubate the females eggs in their mouths.
A gentle slope leads to the drop-off at 100 feet or more. Large coral heads sport a variety of gorgonians, barrel and rope sponges. You'll spot lone barracuda and small shoals of jacks and yellowtail snappers, as well as pairs of tiny slender filefish amid the branching gorgonians.
A gentle slope leads to the drop-off at 100 feet or more. Large coral heads sport a variety of gorgonians, barrel and rope sponges. You'll spot lone barracuda and small shoals of jacks and yellowtail snappers, as well as pairs of tiny slender filefish amid the branching gorgonians.
TRIPLE ANCHORS - Intermediate
This site is named for a trio of coral encrusted 18th century anchors, one close to the mooring pin in 45 feet. Have your divemaster show you the other two. Large reef patches and outcrops dot a sandy slope that leads to the wall at 100 feet or so. You'll find very large barrel and tube sponges on the sand. Coral overhangs in the shallows are home to spiny lobsters, while branching gorgonians shelter trumpetfish and timid snappers. Follow the edge of the drop-off to spot passing pairs of majestic eagle rays.
WEST POINT WALL - Intermediate
The mooring here is perched atop the edge of the wall, which drops sharply from only 25 feet. Carved with deep cuts and gullies, the reeftop cries out to be explored. Save it for the latter half of your dive, after you've reached your target depth on the wall.
As you descend, you'll find a grand selection of colorful vase, rope and barrel sponges, which give way to stands of black coral and impressive deepwater sea fans. Big black groupers inspect you from fissures along the wall, while barracuda, spadefish and eagle rays shadow you from the blue.
Ascend to one of the gullies and follow it toward shallow water. Almost forming tunnels in places, these cuts shelter lobsters, shoaling silversides, squirrelfish and the elusive toadfish. You'll emerge on broad san patches interspersed with coral heads. Search the sand for peacock flounders, southern stingrays, yellowhead jawfish and colonies of swaying garden eels.
As you descend, you'll find a grand selection of colorful vase, rope and barrel sponges, which give way to stands of black coral and impressive deepwater sea fans. Big black groupers inspect you from fissures along the wall, while barracuda, spadefish and eagle rays shadow you from the blue.
Ascend to one of the gullies and follow it toward shallow water. Almost forming tunnels in places, these cuts shelter lobsters, shoaling silversides, squirrelfish and the elusive toadfish. You'll emerge on broad san patches interspersed with coral heads. Search the sand for peacock flounders, southern stingrays, yellowhead jawfish and colonies of swaying garden eels.
THE ELBOW - Advanced
On the south tip of the atoll, this is one of Turneffe's most-exposed sites. Even gentle winds stir up sizable swell, thus it's only divable in calm conditions. It should always be approached as a drift dive with reliable surface coer, as the current could sweep divers into open water, particularly during a safety stop. You should also carry signaling equipment (i.e. marker tube, flag, air horn, etc.) to aid pickup if you separate from the group.
You'll drop in along the edge of the wall, where the reef rises to about 60 feet, though most of the dive will be spent deeper and farther off the reef in open water. While limited, your bottom time will be unforgettable.
The nameskae elbow is the point where currents that flow down both sides of the atoll converge. This turbulence attracts dense schools of crevalle and horse-eye jacks, Atlantic spadefish, barracuda and cubera snappers, as well as several shark species. Pods of dolphins are frequent visitors and schools of eagle rays may pass by.
You'll drop in along the edge of the wall, where the reef rises to about 60 feet, though most of the dive will be spent deeper and farther off the reef in open water. While limited, your bottom time will be unforgettable.
The nameskae elbow is the point where currents that flow down both sides of the atoll converge. This turbulence attracts dense schools of crevalle and horse-eye jacks, Atlantic spadefish, barracuda and cubera snappers, as well as several shark species. Pods of dolphins are frequent visitors and schools of eagle rays may pass by.
BLACK BEAUTY - Intermediate
Just east of The Elbow, this site also requires calm weather for a comfortable dive. When the winds are up, surge and swell are strong enough to break the moorings. When conditions allow, this is an excellent dive, offering frequent sightings of pelagics and sharks.
The dive typically starts in 50 feet atop a coral buttress, which slopes sharply and in laced with gullies. It's exhilarating to follow one of these sandy chutes and emerge on the vertical wall at 100 feet or so. Currents are often strong on the wall - start your tour against the flow for an easier return to the boat. The nutrient laden water supports rich sponge growth and numerous deepwater sea fans. As the site name implies, black coral was once prolific here, though not anymore. End your dive on the reeftop amid a healthy population of reef species.
The dive typically starts in 50 feet atop a coral buttress, which slopes sharply and in laced with gullies. It's exhilarating to follow one of these sandy chutes and emerge on the vertical wall at 100 feet or so. Currents are often strong on the wall - start your tour against the flow for an easier return to the boat. The nutrient laden water supports rich sponge growth and numerous deepwater sea fans. As the site name implies, black coral was once prolific here, though not anymore. End your dive on the reeftop amid a healthy population of reef species.
GLOVER'S REEF ATOLL
GLOVER'S REEF ATOLL
Some 25 miles southeast of Dangriga, Glover's Reef is Belize's southern most atoll, capped by a collection of six small cayes that boast white-sand beaches backed by swaying palm trees. The atoll was named after 18th century English buccaneer John Glover, who used the cayes as a base for attacking Spanish merchant ships.
Only accessible by boat, the atoll boasts spectacular hard-coral formations that make a dive trip here worth the extra effort. Day trips to Glover's Reef are available from Dangriga, Hopkins, Sittee River, Tobassco Caye and South Water Caye, while live-aboard boats only occasionally visit the atoll. The trip is weather dependent, so if you're determined to explore the best sites, stay at one of the resident resorts.
Some 25 miles southeast of Dangriga, Glover's Reef is Belize's southern most atoll, capped by a collection of six small cayes that boast white-sand beaches backed by swaying palm trees. The atoll was named after 18th century English buccaneer John Glover, who used the cayes as a base for attacking Spanish merchant ships.
Only accessible by boat, the atoll boasts spectacular hard-coral formations that make a dive trip here worth the extra effort. Day trips to Glover's Reef are available from Dangriga, Hopkins, Sittee River, Tobassco Caye and South Water Caye, while live-aboard boats only occasionally visit the atoll. The trip is weather dependent, so if you're determined to explore the best sites, stay at one of the resident resorts.
LONG CAYE LAGOON - Novice
Lagoon dives offer a relaxing alternative to sites along the wall. You can swim out from the beach to explore near shore turtle grass beds and coral heads or take a short boat ride to check out patch reef farther inside the lagoon. Juvenile fish and specialized hunters swirl amid clusters of healthy shallow-water corals and gorgonians. Watch for shoals of sprats and tiny jacks, stingrays and eagle rays, grazing hogfish, dozens of conchs and slumbering nurse sharks.
If you dive or snorkel from the beach at Long Caye, have a look in the shallows beside the boat dock. They seem lifeless at first, but if you search amid the turtle grass and debris, you may spot seahorses, slender filefish, snake eels and a dozen or more juvenile spiny lobsters hiding in coconut shells and tin cans. You'll also encounter myriad tiny reef fish and bold barracuda.
If you dive or snorkel from the beach at Long Caye, have a look in the shallows beside the boat dock. They seem lifeless at first, but if you search amid the turtle grass and debris, you may spot seahorses, slender filefish, snake eels and a dozen or more juvenile spiny lobsters hiding in coconut shells and tin cans. You'll also encounter myriad tiny reef fish and bold barracuda.
LONG CAYE CUT - Novice
This site is idea for snorkelers and student divers. It's also an excellent site for photographers, thanks to an abundance of adult and juvenile reef fish and the shallow depth, which allows long bottom times. While boat traffic is intermittent, this is one of the major channels into the lagoon - use caution as you ascend, and plan to surface beside one of the patch reef that line the channel. Visibility can drop in the cut when a current is flowing from the lagoon.
The coral head shelter all sorts of reef fish, including impressive morays, pairs of gray angelfish, queen triggerfish, and foureye and banded butterflyfish. Notice the often dramatic differences between adult and juvenile phases of the same species.
Southern stingrays and eagle rays feed on mollusks amid turtle grass beds and sand and rubble patches in mid-channel. Search the turtle grass to spot grazing conchs and their discarded shells, which shelter juvenile dameselfish, wrasses and tobaccofish. This is also a good area to find the shortnose batfish.
The coral head shelter all sorts of reef fish, including impressive morays, pairs of gray angelfish, queen triggerfish, and foureye and banded butterflyfish. Notice the often dramatic differences between adult and juvenile phases of the same species.
Southern stingrays and eagle rays feed on mollusks amid turtle grass beds and sand and rubble patches in mid-channel. Search the turtle grass to spot grazing conchs and their discarded shells, which shelter juvenile dameselfish, wrasses and tobaccofish. This is also a good area to find the shortnose batfish.
LONG CAYE WALL - Intermediate
Jacques Cousteau once rated this one of the three best dives in the world. While that claim is up for debate, it remains a spectacular dive. From the mooring a broad sandy plane slopes gently to a wall capped by lush coral growth. Deep gullies then lead to a sheer face blanketed with bright orange elephant ear sponges, yellow tube sponges and large deepwater gorgonians. Peer into the inky blue to spot schools of crevalle jacks, tarpon and Atlantic spadefish. Watch your gauges, as its easy to lose track of time and depth.
Save some air to explore the sandy shallows, an ideal spot for novice divers to perfect their buoyancy, though surface winds sometimes bring strong surge. Garden eels peek shly from their burrows beside the wall, while southern stingrays and eagle rays root in the sand, followed by attendant bar jacks. Farther up the slope you may find shortnose batfish, peacock flounder, hermit crabs and sand titlefish.
Save some air to explore the sandy shallows, an ideal spot for novice divers to perfect their buoyancy, though surface winds sometimes bring strong surge. Garden eels peek shly from their burrows beside the wall, while southern stingrays and eagle rays root in the sand, followed by attendant bar jacks. Farther up the slope you may find shortnose batfish, peacock flounder, hermit crabs and sand titlefish.
BEV'S GARDEN - Intermediate
Bev's Garden is named for one of the divemasters on Long Caye. Close to the mooring at 30 feet is the namesake coral garden, with healthy patches of lettuce and staghorn corals. These hardy corals are able to withstand the moderate surge spawned by westerly ocean swells.
Follow the gentle slope toward the reef buttress where dramatic cuts spill out along a sheer drop-off. The face sports big barrel and tube sponges, and you'll spot lots of reef fish and pelagics. Eagle rays are frequent visitors. Much of the wall is undercut between 60 to 70 feet. in places forming small caves filled with silversides and groups of spiny lobsters.
Back up on the rim you'll find a number of cleaning stations hosted by juvenile Spanish hogfish and cleaner gobies - barracuda are favorite clients. Follow one of the cuts back to the coral garden, which is busy with small fish. Look for the tiny arrow blenny, which dwells in bore holes on the large sponges.
Follow the gentle slope toward the reef buttress where dramatic cuts spill out along a sheer drop-off. The face sports big barrel and tube sponges, and you'll spot lots of reef fish and pelagics. Eagle rays are frequent visitors. Much of the wall is undercut between 60 to 70 feet. in places forming small caves filled with silversides and groups of spiny lobsters.
Back up on the rim you'll find a number of cleaning stations hosted by juvenile Spanish hogfish and cleaner gobies - barracuda are favorite clients. Follow one of the cuts back to the coral garden, which is busy with small fish. Look for the tiny arrow blenny, which dwells in bore holes on the large sponges.
THE CRACK - Intermediate
A 10 minute boat ride from Long Caye, this site offers a foray into cave diving. The reef buttress is cut with narrow slots that meet near the reeftop, forming tunnels. One in particular, The Crack, opens at 45 feet and falls steeply, exiting on the wall between 90 to 100 feet. To either side of the tunnel entrance are small caves, overhangs and gullies that shelter schooling silversides and blackbar soldierfish and groups of inquisitive spiny lobsters.
The tunnel is quite narrow in places, with a sandy bottom that attracts sleepy nurse sharks - try not to startle them, as they only way out may be over your head! Although some sunlight does reach the tunnel, you should bring a dive light to better spot marine life in the recesses. Youll find bright orange Tubastrea cup corals, long sea whips, channel clinging crabs, shrimp and slipper lobsters.
Watch your depth as you emerge on the wall amid cruising horse-eye jacks and barracuda. To finish your dive, either ascend the reef face or follow another cut back to the shallows, though the latter option may be difficult if divers have disturbed the sand.
The tunnel is quite narrow in places, with a sandy bottom that attracts sleepy nurse sharks - try not to startle them, as they only way out may be over your head! Although some sunlight does reach the tunnel, you should bring a dive light to better spot marine life in the recesses. Youll find bright orange Tubastrea cup corals, long sea whips, channel clinging crabs, shrimp and slipper lobsters.
Watch your depth as you emerge on the wall amid cruising horse-eye jacks and barracuda. To finish your dive, either ascend the reef face or follow another cut back to the shallows, though the latter option may be difficult if divers have disturbed the sand.
THE ABYSS - Intermediate
This site lies midway between Long and Middle Cayes. From the mooring you'll descend on numerous coral heads amid white-sand channels. Reaching toward the surface, the larger coral heads are festooned with lush gorgonians and clusters of long tube sponges. Toward the wall these heads merge and rise as steep buttresses, flanking deep sand chutes that lead to the drop-off.
Descend the sheer face to your target depth and drift either northeast or southwest in the gentle current. Almost every overhang is home to spiny lobsters and both spotted and green moray eels. Barracuda and groupers patrol beside sea fans, tangle of vivid rope sponges and several large barrel sponges, some big enough to hold a diver. This is not an invitation - any damage could ultimately kill the sponge. End your dive exploring the shallow reeftop.
Descend the sheer face to your target depth and drift either northeast or southwest in the gentle current. Almost every overhang is home to spiny lobsters and both spotted and green moray eels. Barracuda and groupers patrol beside sea fans, tangle of vivid rope sponges and several large barrel sponges, some big enough to hold a diver. This is not an invitation - any damage could ultimately kill the sponge. End your dive exploring the shallow reeftop.
MIDDLE CAYE WALL - Intermediate
Middle Caye is home to the Glover's Reef Marine Research Station, and the adjacent wall boasts some of the atoll's finest coral formations. Follow the sandy slope past scattered coral heads to the top of the wall at 50 feet. Lined with gorgonians, the rim is marked by cuts and overhangs that conceal shoals of schoolmasters and bluestriped grunts. One overhang shelters an especially large green moray eel named Mordecai, which often shares its home with resting nurse sharks.
As you edge over the wall, you'll encounter a gentle current, which attracts schools of horse-eye jacks, Atlantic spadefish and silvery palometas. The visibility is often stunning here, so keep an eye on the blue water for passing reef sharks and loggerhead turtles. The wall sports massive star and brain corals, which are festooned with long tube sponges, bright red and green rope sponges and deepwater sea fans that reach into the current. Throughout the site you'll observe hectic schools of creole wrasses and blue tangs, as well as pairs of bold French angelfish.
As you edge over the wall, you'll encounter a gentle current, which attracts schools of horse-eye jacks, Atlantic spadefish and silvery palometas. The visibility is often stunning here, so keep an eye on the blue water for passing reef sharks and loggerhead turtles. The wall sports massive star and brain corals, which are festooned with long tube sponges, bright red and green rope sponges and deepwater sea fans that reach into the current. Throughout the site you'll observe hectic schools of creole wrasses and blue tangs, as well as pairs of bold French angelfish.
THE PINNACLES - Intermediate
Dive operators usually skip the west die of Glover's Reef unless conditions are too rough out east. You'll need to prearrange the longer boat ride across the lagoon. There are no moorings - to find the sites, you'll need either the GPS coordinates or an experienced boatman. These sites are worth the extra effort.
This dive starts atop scattered coral heads in 40 to 50 feet. Father seaward, massive coral pinnacles rise from the lip of the wall to within 20 feet of the surface. Between them are wide, gorgonian-lined sand channels, home to schoolmasters and bluestriped grunts. The channel exit on the sheer face amid colorful sponges and deepwater gorgonians. Expect to find schools of Spanish mackerel, trevallies, barracuda and glasseye snappers. Sharks often pass through, and manta rays visit the wall in the spring.
In such clear water, it's easy to stray deeper than you intend. Most divemasters suggest a conservative dive profile, as you're far from the nearest recompression chamber.
This dive starts atop scattered coral heads in 40 to 50 feet. Father seaward, massive coral pinnacles rise from the lip of the wall to within 20 feet of the surface. Between them are wide, gorgonian-lined sand channels, home to schoolmasters and bluestriped grunts. The channel exit on the sheer face amid colorful sponges and deepwater gorgonians. Expect to find schools of Spanish mackerel, trevallies, barracuda and glasseye snappers. Sharks often pass through, and manta rays visit the wall in the spring.
In such clear water, it's easy to stray deeper than you intend. Most divemasters suggest a conservative dive profile, as you're far from the nearest recompression chamber.
WEST WALL - Intermediate
This are boasts several impressive sites that share similar topography. West Wall is one of the few with an official name. You'll swim down a sandy slope in 30 feet past scattered coral heads. These gradually coalesce into broad coral buttresses that rise to within 30 feet of the surface. Only the shallowest corals show signs of damage from past hurricanes. You'll find such abundant fish life and coral growth that its possible to spend the whole dive exploring the reeftop.
The alternative is to follow one of several cuts in the wall that emerge over the blue-black depths at 70 feet. Explore undercuts filled with gorgonians and sponges to find schools of blackbar soldierfish, but keep an eye on the blue for larger denizens. To finish your dive, head back through an adjacent cut or ascend to the rim and explore the shallow reeftop.
The alternative is to follow one of several cuts in the wall that emerge over the blue-black depths at 70 feet. Explore undercuts filled with gorgonians and sponges to find schools of blackbar soldierfish, but keep an eye on the blue for larger denizens. To finish your dive, head back through an adjacent cut or ascend to the rim and explore the shallow reeftop.